*Do not use with continuous output or chopper-operated type controllers.

Location of Controller

The electric fence controller should be installed in a clean location where direct moisture and sunlight do not come into contact with the enclosure on a continuous basis. This location should be as close to the power source and the electric fence as possible. Even though the controller's enclosure is basically weatherproof, it is advisable to install it indoors or in a weatherproof housing. Be sure to install porcelain tube-type insulators (or equivalent) in the walls of buildings or housings where the fence wires feed through.

Never allow the fence wires to come into contact with objects which may conduct the electric fence "charge" to ground. Frequently inspect the area where the controller is installed and maintain it as a clean and dry environment.

Typical Electric Fence Design:

1. The design is simple and usually consists of wood, steel or aluminum posts fitted with Fi-Shock insulators and threaded with a single strand of wire.  Spacing between posts may vary at your discretion, but be sure the wire is always taut and never allowed to sag excessively. Rule of thumb; space posts 12 to 25 feet (3.7 to 7.6 m) apart.

    

2. The earth is half your fence -- so if your grounding rod is not satisfactory, you will have a poor working fence. For best results, drive a 6-foot (1.8 m) steel rod, galvanized pipe or copper rod into the earth. This grounding rod doesn't have to be next to the controller, but can be located nearby, preferably in a low, wet spot. This assures better grounding.

    

3. In dry or sandy soil areas it may be necessary to run a ground wire just below the "hot" wire. This ensures proper "shock" if animal contacts both wires. In other words, some types of earth do not conduct electricity well and often single-line fences do not work because of poor grounding conditions.

   When an animal comes into contact with an electrically charged fence wire, the animal will feel the electric current because the electrical charge passes through the animal's body, then through the earth to the ground rod and then up the ground wire to the ground terminal of the controller. If the animal and the ground terminal of the controller are not sufficiently grounded, then the path of electric current cannot be completed and the animal will not feel the shock. Since earth is half of the electric fence circuit, it is very important to have a properly installed ground circuit. In areas where poor soil and earth grounding conditions exist, use the two-wire system. Likewise, the fence wire must always be properly insulated and not allowed to come into contact with shrubs, tall grass and any other conductive objects on a continual basis. Otherwise, the electric charge from the fence wire will conduct to ground through weeds, itc. and the fence loses its "shocking" power.

Proper Grounding
Most fence problems are caused by poor grounding conditions. Proper grounding is an absolute must if your electric fence system is to work correctly. The ground rod should be either copper or galvanized steel (or equivalent) and driven into the earth to a depth of 6 to 8 foot (1.8 to 2.4 m). The grounding will work more efficiently if the rod is driven to a point where moisture is present. The rod may be driven into the ground at an angle if necessary. Never use an existing ground rod that is connected to any other electrical systems. Do not use a water line for grounding the controller. To connect the ground wire to the ground rod use a ground clamp that is mechanically secured to the rod.

Insulators
Use standard Fi-Shock insulators on rod-type line support posts or on wooden posts. At stress points such as corners or the starting point, use Fi-Shock corner post insulators. Always insulate wooden posts. Do not staple wire directly to the post or you may have a problem with arcing.

Panel Fuse Holders  
If your fence controller is equipped with panel-type fuseholders, check periodically. If one needs to be replaced, simply push in the fuse knob and twist counterclockwise to release and then reverse direction to replace knob and fuse. Caution: Replacement fuse should be rated at the amperage value shown on the controller's label.

Insulated Wire
 

1. For running under roads, under gates, etc., use insulated under ground or under-gate type wire only. Use this application with PVC tubing if desired.

    

2. For jumping on three to four strand fences, use 12-1/2 gauge insulated under-gate cable.

Gates
Gates can be constructed from a single "hot" wire line with the use of an insulated gate handle. A standard gate can also be used without interfering with the electric fence by running insulated cable underneath the ground as mentioned above. To prevent cattle from rubbing or pushing through a gate, a "hot" line can be mounted on the gate itself. 

Training
Cattle, horses, hogs, etc. will learn to respect an electric fence system after some exposure to a "hot" wire. Set up a simple single line inside a set of pens or small traps and animals will soon learn what the wire means. Even hard-to-handle bulls respect electric fences. Training takes very little time and effort but it is a must if you want a completely successful fence program.

Energizing Ranges