FENCE WIRE RECOMMENDATIONS |
Size: |
20 through 9 American wire gauge |
Type: |
1. Smooth galvanized steel electric fence wire |
2. Aluminum (conducts electricity 4 times better than
steel) |
3. Plastic/metallic wire (see wire manufacturer's
recommendation located on the wire package) |
Important Note:
Before using the controller for the first time, push the switch in
the "OFF" position and expose the solar module to sunlight for at least
three days. This will allow the battery to become fully charged and
ready for use.
Fencing Laws:
Most states have laws defining what constitutes a legal partition
fence or a fence along a highway or railway. Local ordinances usually
specify acceptable fencing between adjacent home lots. In addition,
local laws may prohibit the use of electric fence controllers. A permit
may be required in some cases.
Safety Tips:
-
Use an electric fence sign to identify the charged wire.
-
Inform family members and neighbors, especially small children,
about the location and operation of the electric fence.
-
Instruct all applicable persons how to disconnect the controller
in case of an emergency.
-
Never climb over an electric fence wire while it is carrying an
electric charge.
-
Do not install an electric fence underneath transmission or power
lines.
-
Do not use more than one electric fence controller on the same
fence.
-
Install the controller and the electric fence according to the
installation and operating instructions.
-
Repair of the electric fence controller should be performed by an
authorized center only. (Battery can be replaced by the user.)
Solar Module Maintenance
The DO's and DON'TS for maintaining the solar module's efficiency:
- DO--Check the controller and solar module as often as
possible for proper operation.
-
- DO--Clean the surface of the solar module when needed. Use
a damp cloth, but do not use any abrasive cleaning agent or cleaning
pad that might damage the module's glass.
-
- DO--Cover the solar module with something dark in color
when not in use for more than three days in order to prevent
overcharging the battery.
-
- DO--Remove any object that obstructs the sunlight from
reaching the module.
-
- DON'T--Use any means of charging the battery other than the
solar module or a constant- potential-current-limited charger.
-
- DON'T--Overcharge the battery. To use a battery charging
system other than the solar module, the battery must be removed from
the circuit.
Location
of Controller
The electric fence controller
should be installed in a clean location where direct moisture
and sunlight do not come into contact with the enclosure on a
continuous basis. This location should be as close to the power
source and the electric fence as possible. Even though the
controller's enclosure is basically weatherproof, it is
advisable to install it indoors or in a weatherproof housing. Be
sure to install porcelain tube-type insulators (or equivalent)
in the walls of buildings or housings where the fence wires feed
through.
Never allow the fence wires to come into contact with objects
which may conduct the electric fence "charge" to ground.
Frequently inspect the area where the controller is installed
and maintain it as a clean and dry environment.
Typical Electric Fence Design:
-
The design is simple and usually consists of wood, steel
or aluminum posts fitted with Fi-Shock insulators and threaded
with a single strand of wire. Spacing between posts may vary at your
discretion, but be sure the wire is always taut and never
allowed to sag excessively. Rule of thumb; space posts 12 to
25 feet (3.7 to 7.6 m) apart.
-
The earth is half your fence -- so if your grounding rod
is not satisfactory, you will have a poor working fence. For
best results, drive a 6-foot (1.8 m) steel rod, galvanized
pipe or copper rod into the earth. This grounding rod doesn't
have to be next to the controller, but can be located nearby,
preferably in a low, wet spot. This assures better grounding.
-
In dry or sandy soil areas it may be
necessary to run a ground wire just below the "hot" wire. This
ensures proper "shock" if animal contacts both wires. In other
words, some types of earth do not conduct electricity well and
often single-line fences do not work because of poor grounding
conditions.
When an
animal comes into contact with an electrically charged fence
wire, the animal will feel the electric current because the
electrical charge passes through the animal's body, then
through the earth to the ground rod and then up the ground
wire to the ground terminal of the controller. If the animal
and the ground terminal of the controller are not sufficiently
grounded, then the path of electric current cannot be
completed and the animal will not feel the shock. Since earth
is half of the electric fence circuit, it is very important to
have a properly installed ground circuit. In areas where poor
soil and earth grounding conditions exist, use the two-wire
system.
Likewise, the fence wire must always be properly insulated and
not allowed to come into contact with shrubs, tall grass and
any other conductive objects on a continual basis. Otherwise,
the electric charge from the fence wire will conduct to ground
through weeds, itc. and the fence loses its "shocking" power.
Proper Grounding
Most fence problems are caused by poor grounding conditions.
Proper grounding is an absolute must if your electric fence
system is to work correctly. The ground rod should be either
copper or galvanized steel (or equivalent) and driven into the
earth to a depth of 6 to 8 foot (1.8 to 2.4 m). The grounding
will work more efficiently if the rod is driven to a point where
moisture is present. The rod may be driven into the ground at an
angle if necessary. Never use an existing ground rod that is
connected to any other electrical systems. Do not use a water
line for grounding the controller. To connect the ground wire to
the ground rod use a ground clamp that is mechanically secured
to the rod.
Insulators
Use standard Fi-Shock insulators on rod-type line support posts
or on wooden posts. At stress points such as corners or the
starting point, use Fi-Shock corner post insulators. Always
insulate wooden posts. Do not staple wire directly to the post
or you may have a problem with arcing.
Panel Fuse Holders
If your fence controller is equipped with panel-type fuseholders,
check periodically. If one needs to be replaced, simply push in
the fuse knob and twist counterclockwise to release and then
reverse direction to replace knob and fuse. Caution: Replacement
fuse should be rated at the amperage value shown on the
controller's label.
Insulated Wire
-
For running under roads, under gates, etc., use insulated
under ground or under-gate type wire only. Use this
application with PVC tubing if desired.
-
For jumping on three to four strand fences, use 12-1/2
gauge insulated under-gate cable.
Gates
Gates can be constructed from a single "hot" wire line with the
use of an insulated gate handle. A standard gate can also be used without interfering with
the electric fence by running insulated cable underneath the
ground as mentioned above. To prevent cattle from rubbing or
pushing through a gate, a "hot" line can be mounted on the gate
itself.
Fence Maintenance:
-
-
Periodically inspect the fence line and remove vines, brush growth
and fallen branches which will short out the fence.
Troubleshooting Guide:
-
If the fence is not operating properly, check the fence line to
make sure it is not touching your house, trees, shrubs, grass weeds or
anything other than the plastic fence posts. These will all cause the
fence to short out.
-
Check your connections to the controller to see that they are
secure.
-
Be sure your fence and ground wires are tightened securely.
-
If you suspect there is no charge from the controller, perform the
following test.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE ACTIVATED FENCE WIRE!
Use a commercial electric fence tester to check the output on the
fence line while it is activated. If there is no output, remove the
fence wire from the controller and check the output across the
terminals with an electric fence tester. If the tester indicates
output, the problem is with the fence. If the tester indicates no
output, the problem is with the controller.
NOTE: A blinking indicator lamp shows output to be OK. If
the lamp does not blink, remove the fence wire from the controller.
Turn controller on. If lamp does blink, the problem is with the fence.
If lamp does not blink, the problem is with the controller or battery.
Training
Cattle, horses, hogs, etc. will learn to respect an electric
fence system after some exposure to a "hot" wire. Set up a
simple single line inside a set of pens or small traps and
animals will soon learn what the wire means. Even hard-to-handle
bulls respect electric fences. Training takes very little time
and effort but it is a must if you want a completely successful
fence program.
Energizing Ranges
Energizing range for
controller using single-strand fencing under ideal
conditions. Range will decrease when using multiple strands
and under certain fence loading conditions. |
Model |
Output |
Range |
SS-9000/DS-9000
|
Intermittent |
Up to 20 miles (32 km)
|
SS-8000/DS-8000
|
Intermittent |
Up to 50 miles (80 km)
|
SS-7000 Series |
Intermittent |
Up to 640 acres (2,590 sq. km)
|
SS-4000/DS-4000
|
Intermittent |
Up to 20 miles (32 km)
|
SS-3000 |
Intermittent |
Up to 25 miles (40 km)
|
SS-1000/DS-1000
|
Intermittent |
Up to 20 miles (32 km)
|
SS-2000/DS-2000
|
Intermittent |
Up to 10 miles (16 km)
|
SS-900 |
Intermittent |
Up to 5 miles (8 km)
|
SS-550/DS-550 |
Intermittent |
Up to 6 miles (10 km)
|
SS-525/DS-525 |
Continuous |
Up to 6 miles (10 km)
|
SS-505 |
Continuous |
Up to 6 miles (10 km)
|
Super Bee |
Continuous |
Up to 6 miles (10 km)
|
All of the above fence
controllers are designed and intended for livestock
confinement purposes only. They are not recommended for use
in containing dogs and other small animals.
Local laws may prohibit the use of electric fence
controllers. A permit may be required in some states.
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